Next in the
game of fashion musical chairs is Burberry. Renowned for its trademark beige
plaid and trench coats, Burberry has appointed the Italian former Givenchy
Creative Director, Riccardo Tisci to its helm after Chief Creative Officer, Christopher
Bailey, departed from the label in 2017. Like Hedi Slimane at CELINE, Tisci has
rebranded Burberry, unveiling Burberry’s new logo and monogram, designed by the iconic British art director and graphic
Designer Peter Saville, in an Instagram post. Humorously, the monogram has
been compared to yogurt covered pretzels.
The CELINE comparisons continue to
the aesthetic makeover of Burberry’s clothing. However, while Slimane overhauled
the entire CELINE aesthetic, Tisci instead gave Burberry’s staid, traditional and
beige apparel a new direction. Tisci’s dark, gothic and romantic designs at
Givenchy graced fashion capitals in the form of eveningwear, athleisure and streetwear.
These style trademarks were reimagined in his 134 look inaugural collection, “Kingdom”,
which referenced British style-tribes, Victorians and punks – beige has never
looked more daring. The collection was designed for mass appeal as its sections
“refined”, “relaxed” and “evening” catered to different sensibilities. Moreover,
in a similar vein to streetwear labels, Tisci will be collaborating with Vivienne
Westwood to rework her archive styles for Burberry in a December drop.
Tisci’s appointment of marks the most visible change in Burberry’s branding, however Bailey had overhauled Burberry’s background processes in recent years. This was exmplified in his unification of menswear and womenswear runway shows in a seasonless calendar and the introduction of the “See Now, Buy Now” model, in which new season clothing could be purchased immediately after shows. This sought to capture sales from the media buzz generated by fashion shows, rather losing them because of months of production lead-time in which buzz has died down and high-street labels have imitated designs. Hence, it is safe to say that Marco Gobbetti, Burberry’s latest CEO, is well underway in his 5-year plan to re-invigorate the brand whose sales growth has trailed behind rivalling LVMH and Kering.
TTYL
See Also: CELINE Vs. Céline
References
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